DIY - Install 'Factory/Port' RS3000 Key-less Entrance Gen8.5 (2001-2002) Corolla

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Kingdom934

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Hello All!

Use this guide at your own risk. I nor Camry Source assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.
I've been meaning to get a working keyless system with my 2001 Corolla. I know the RS3000 existed, but it seemed it was a fairly rare 'port' install. I didn't want to go aftermarket because I wanted factory looking remotes and that cool 'SECURITY' module...lol. So my hunt begin.

I was lucky that the first few cars I saw had this installed. I quickly pulled it. You can tell if you have the factory / port install alarm if you have this SECURITY light. If you do not have this, you do not have the RS3000 installed.






The RS3000 AFAIK is the same from the 1998-2002 Corolla, although I am suspecting anything with the RS3000 would work from different cars (i.e from Camry to Corolla etc), just the wiring harness might be different length or have different brackets. I couldn't locate any P/N for this wire harness. There is two different RS3000 though, one that uses the black remotes (96-97) and one that uses the grey remotes (98-02)...do not get confused with the RS3200 line as they had their own remotes as well and overlap in those years. The Corolla supposedly should had an ECU located underneath the driver seat, but I guess in my donor car, the dealership got lazy and just ran the ecu behind the dash.




------------------------------------
Remote information first
------------------------------------
Added some information to help people figure out what remote to get. .

EL010-07 Wireless Transmitter & Programming Guide (aka Toyota FOB Remote Guide)









FACTORY Installed (NOT DEALER/PORT INSTALL)
EL008-98



RS3000 Owners Guide (aka RS3000 Keyless entry Guide)
AX005-99



 
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Kingdom934

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After locating that this is the car. You need to remove the center console.

There are two screws near the shifter on the base of the assembly (not pictured). Remove those two philips and then there should be two more nuts inside the center compartment on the base. I think they were 10mm or 12mm (not pictured). Once that is remove, carefully lift it up and you will need to disconnect the security module (see below). use a pick to loosen th two connectors underneath the foam covering.



This way with the security light disconnected, locate the wires going underneath the dash.



In this picture, I have remove the lower panel and you can see the wiring which I had already pulled out on the bottom right of the picture. This metal brace is held on by 4x 10mm bolts. Two are already remove on the bottom when you remove the lower plastic cover.



Picture on the zip ties used and where the wires are located


Zip ties


You'll start tracing the wires. If you see this, KEEP THE T-TAP in place and CUT OFF THE FACTORY PIGTAIL WITH IT ATTACH. It'll make it easier when you need to transfer the system into your car.


Reference shot




T-Tap connector, Reference shot


Reference shot


Reference shot, t tap connector


Reference shot, t-tap connector


Reference shot, t-tap connector



Reference shot of the wiring harness.
 
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Reference shot


Reference shot of t-tap


Reference shot


Reference shot of t-tap and connector


Reference shot of t-tap


Reference shot and location on where the glass detector sensitive module was located


Reference shot and more t-taps


Reference shot and t-taps


Reference shot


Reference shot


more Reference shots...


Reference shot and location of where this car ECU for the RS3000 was located. I had to basically have my head up where the brake pedal was to see it.


The RS3000 was tipped tied to the lower air duct.


wide angle shot of the mess and zip ties everywhere.


Last of the harness...the piezo buzzer. That red and black wire. I ended up chopping the connection here and was able to pull the piezo buzzer and the harness out separate. The piezo chiper is a rolled up foam ball near the master cylinder.



Got the complete harness in my car. It was a bunch of wires!
 
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Just pictures of the harness. Note that there is a really long wire. This wire goes to the trunk...forgot to picture it above. It T-TAPs into the trunk harness. Just note down the wire and color on where it t-taps in the trunk. I think this is if the trunk is open when the car is arm, it will trigger.


This one goes to the trunk.


RS3000 main ecu


SECURITY light module pictured. Note the disconnect connectors


Part of the harness. Note how I chopped off the factory connector with the alarm side. This was I can remember where I need to put the T-TAP on my corolla


More pics on the different t-taps connectors and the t-tap
*Interesting note, see where there is a t-tap for the black and red lines? These were actually just straight connections...they used that to 'extend' the wires. Those two goes to the peizo chirper that went outside in the engine bay.


Note how I chopped off the factory connector with the wire that t-tap in to the factory harness.


There was a gray wire that wasn't used that was wrapped up.


random number for one of the ecu
trs1293
990302b0747
assembled in usa


Toyota V.I.P Security System
Electronic Control Unit
MODEL: RS3000 (08190-00921)
FCC ID: BAB237000-129
CANADA: 2024 101 527A
PRODUCT NO. 237000-1292 FUJITSU TEN LIMITED



GLASS BREAKAGE SENSOR
ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT
TOYOTA
PART NO. 08192-00970
PRODUCT NO. 237000-1360
FUJITSU TEN LIMITED


SERIAL NO. 981030M1090
MADEI N THE PHILIPPINES
 
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Before you start ripping apart at your own car, disconnect the car battery and wait for about 90sec. Get your tools, etc.

This DIY is a bit different because i am removing a non-functional alarm in this car that was installed as an aftermarket after the purchase of this car.




Harness overview


Another shot


Decided to use Tesa tape to wrap the harness up. This tape is AWESOME.


Another shot of harness



Start by removing the lower panel as done with the donor car.


Remove the lower sills. You need to run the wire that goes for the trunk.




lower kick panel. It should just twist and pop off. Bonus: notice the non-factory button for the non-factory alarm


So much freaking wires from the aftermarket alarm!


10mm bolt


Lower 10mm bolt


lower panel will open up from bottom and pop off.



disconnect the ODBII Port


remove the two 10mm bolts and the screw holding the lower steering wheel cover in place.


metal brace removed.


Slowly removing the aftermarket alarm...
 
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THIS IS NOT PART OF THE RS3000 INSTALL, I HAD TO REMOVE THE OLD NON-FUNCTIONAL AFTERMARKET ALARM

I had to uninstall the aftermarket alarm first...as it stopped working and I had no remotes for it. Pictures below are just reference points on where they might be in your Corolla.

The alarm also had two trigger sensors going to both the front door handles. Those were a single wire with some kind of impact sensor.







There was a cut in the circuit (factory) wire harness which then went to the aftermarket alarm. I cut it and soldered/tape over the wire.




To remove the lower cover, I turned the steering wheel left and right.
note the car was running. This is how I determined after reconnecting the wires (brown one cut above) and without the aftermarket alarm that the car was still functional, LOL





AFtermarket alarm was removed and everything still worked...now to install the RS3000....


Old aftermarket alarm
 
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Reviewing the RS3000 wireharness
This part number doesn't seem to show up on anything

297140-33910700
RS3000 (COROLLA)


Main ECU for RS3000



Next step is really just plug in play the RS3000 into the car. Pictures below are for Reference shot.










Here's one of the T-TAP into the factory harness. Note the factory harness in my car


From the donor car.



Reference shot



T-Tap connector




This connector had a wire t-tap into it. Note the one that is on my car and the donor car. Transfer the t-tap to your car harness. For this car, there was only 3 (two for the one inside the car, one for the trunk)


 
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Use this guide at your own risk. I nor Camry Source assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.

Continue with the connector swap and t-tap wires.

Note the hole in the firewall. This was where my aftermarket alarm unit harness went.


t-tap connector reference shot


Reference shot




Reference shot and t-tap connectors






I didn't take a screenshot of the trunk, but there is one wire that matches the one that I had cut from the donor car. T-TAP that into the factory harness.


you need to go to the process of clearing and adding in remote (instructions in the first post). At first, I thought my alarm wasn't working...so I was rechecking on my connections etc, but I ended up having to put the alarm system into a mode where I could add in remotes so I could see the blinking light on the security module.

The remote that works with this (For mines) is the BAB2037131-022


I'll add in more pictures later with the piezo buzzer in the engine bay.
 
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Very nice right up. If I'm not mistaken, the 7th gen Celica also used the RS3000 alarm. Or maybe the RS3200, it's been a while. Pretty much same sensors and such.

Yes that long cable that goes to the trunk is to activate the alarm if the trunk is forced open.

Now 2zz swap it :D
 
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It is honestly one of the easiest swaps to do. The 1zz wire harness is near identical to the 2zz. Monkey Wrench Racing has an adapter to make VVTI-L work with the 1zz harness. The 2zz drops right in, so does the C60 trans. Finding everything to manual swap would be pretty easy too. Unless you wanted to stick with auto. I'm pretty sure the U240 will fit in nicely as well.
 
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