Something to watch out for on gen1 Tundras and Sequoias

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insightbrewery

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Welp, seen this happen to 3 Sequoias so far: if the bushing on the front shock is pushed out and a bit collapsed - even just a bit - you're risking the shock breaking off at the lower mount. That bushing is CRITICAL.

The stock shock bushing lasts a long time; with most driving patterns, I see that happening around 200K. However, I bought a Sequoia that had that happen, and it only had 130K miles.

I just kicked out an '01 Tundra that the guy got for a steal: $1500 from a dealership. RWD V8, SR5 with 190K on it. Caveat, it was a California brushfire truck. The paint was all bubbled up and the body is warped, but the powertrain and frame were solid as a rock. He's moving to the East Coast so wanted me to do a complete timing belt job and check out the truck. Went off without a hitch but I checked the shocks - which had been replaced at some time in the past with KYB Gas-a-justs - and the bushings were gone. One side had a visible crack in the weld at the mount. Replaced them with Monroe OESpectrum so he could make it to the East Coast.

Check your shock bushings, replace shocks if necessary. I recommend Bilsteins if it's RWD, otherwise KYBs. HTH
 
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71Corolla

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Welp, seen this happen to 3 Sequoias so far: if the bushing on the front shock is pushed out and a bit collapsed - even just a bit - you're risking the shock breaking off at the lower mount. That bushing is CRITICAL.
Whoa.
The paint was all bubbled up and the body is warped...
Damn, would have like to see a few pics.

What's the timing belt job like on these? Hard? Easy? Average?
 
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insightbrewery

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Ah, by the time it got to me the guy had stripped and primer'd it in his soon-to-be-not place of employment's parking lot.

UZ TB jobs are awesome. So straightforward, as long as you have the tool to counterhold the HB so you can remove the bolt and then later torque it to 181 ft-lbs. Notes:

- easiest is on the J100 Land Cruiser, if you have a shallow impact socket and an impact shorter than my current-gen Milwaukee M18 FUEL unit (or basically any air impact that isn't Snap-On's larger offerings), you have space to get it in there and zip loose the crank bolt
- next is Tundra and Sequoia, not quite enough space (but air impacts will fit), but everything else is bog standard
- 4Runner is not bad, but the radiator is more annoying to remove (barely, like an extra 5 minutes)
- LS is kinda weird, especially gen2 LS, because tons of annoying panels
- have to unbolt A/C compressor from all UZ engines. 4Runner and GS, FSM wants you to remove the compressor completely, but it's possible with the right sockets and extensions to unbolt and let them hang. All the others, easy-peasy.

Whoa.

Damn, would have like to see a few pics.

What's the timing belt job like on these? Hard? Easy? Average?
 
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insightbrewery

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So it turns out in addition to a broken shock the driver side lower ball joint snapped off due to abnormally large Pick-n-pull rims (as I like to call them). I gotta get a set of stock rims to stuff on there and sell these nasty ones.
 
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