What did you do to your gen3/gen4 Camry today?

What generation of Camry do you own?


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insightbrewery

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Yeah, I try to buy from RockAuto but it was too convenient so I bought from Amazon this time (shipped from and sold by). Was genuine.

Are those good densos? You know what I mean. If its a bad denso it could affect your voltage I heard.
 
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insightbrewery

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Found a couple of tears in beatercam's brake booster hose along with the usual outside surface cracking, so I decided to replace it. Here're the tears:




New next to old:




New one installed with the old clamps:




...I feel the old clamps could be a bit tighter, so I'll order new ones next time I got several parts I want from Toyota. Not any perceivable difference from before, maybe brakes are a bit better, maybe not. I should replace the check valve, or at least test it.

I gotta check on the alignment marks on Toyota hoses...I'm starting to suspect that white marks are meant to be vertical and yellow to face outward.
 
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paulbot

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Nice. Is that the only place to get the clamps from, Toyota?
 
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CamGuy01

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@insightbrewery , the brake booster hose on my 01 Camry had a similar fate about a year and a half ago and I was shocked when the dealer told me $60 for a new hose so I used fuel line hose of the correct diametre and have not experienced a single problem at all. The only thing I don't have are the 90 degree angles in the hose but I made sure to use enough hose to get a gently curve and have had zero problems and don't anticipate any. As to the clamps I just used regular hose clamps.

On a similar note I will be replacing some of the vacuum lines that go to the EGR valve in that area. Some of the hoses run close to the throttle body/fuel injection system and I noticed that a few of them appear to be double wrapped I am guessing to guard against heat and possible rubbing. I am wondering on the new vacuum hose if I should wrap the corresponding areas with electrical tape to beef them up a little bit. Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
 
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insightbrewery

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Nice. Is that the only place to get the clamps from, Toyota?
Nah, anything should work, but the clamps are so cheap that I toss them in when I'm placing larger parts orders. Plus I like the OE stuff; the OE constant-tension clamps come with a little pink clip. You slide it on, position it, and pull the clip off, it's very satisfying :D.

@insightbrewery , the brake booster hose on my 01 Camry had a similar fate about a year and a half ago and I was shocked when the dealer told me $60 for a new hose so I used fuel line hose of the correct diametre and have not experienced a single problem at all. The only thing I don't have are the 90 degree angles in the hose but I made sure to use enough hose to get a gently curve and have had zero problems and don't anticipate any. As to the clamps I just used regular hose clamps.

On a similar note I will be replacing some of the vacuum lines that go to the EGR valve in that area. Some of the hoses run close to the throttle body/fuel injection system and I noticed that a few of them appear to be double wrapped I am guessing to guard against heat and possible rubbing. I am wondering on the new vacuum hose if I should wrap the corresponding areas with electrical tape to beef them up a little bit. Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
Yeah, the molded OE hoses are expensive...I like molded though, and I replace at the first sign of cracking. I think the booster hose cost me $43, and two small 90-degree EVAP hoses near the airbox were $12-20 each.

If you're worried about rubbing, might as well do the EGR VSV relocation mod which pulls the hoses out of the intake crook. I've never had an issue with the stock setup, although I did replace the throttle body warming hoses on my refresh with new OE, and their protective sheaths do contact the EGR feed pipe sometimes (hot). No issues.
 
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corolapete

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This mechanic is not good. Too perfect even a brake hose :) . I never like the japanese clamps. I like the good ol american chrome screw type. I see your point on the japanese clamps.
 
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insightbrewery

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Lol, I hate the constant-tension three-finger "shocker" clamps. You slip once and it's toast. When the two-fingered side has the fingers connected, it's much better.

This mechanic is not good. Too perfect even a brake hose :) . I never like the japanese clamps. I like the good ol american chrome screw type. I see your point on the japanese clamps.
 
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paulbot

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Getting some Valvoline synthetic transmission fluid today at walmart look what I see.filters.jpg
 
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corolapete

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^^^^ Too bad they are limited for certain cars.
 
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paulbot

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They had a few more but I had to crop the pic down because it was too large for the forum.
 
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insightbrewery

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Swapped out my dome bulb in beatercam for a Philips DE3175 LED. Old one was shorting due to bent contacts...fixed that, now there's this unearthly blue-white glow in the car!

...still gotta figure out why remote lock/unlock doesn't blink the front turn signals or cluster lights.
 
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corolapete

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They had a few more but I had to crop the pic down because it was too large for the forum.
our big walmart did not have one for camry so I bought supertech. The price are a little expensive I think. It shouldn't be more than 3.5$
 
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paulbot

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Surprisingly I had stopped at a smaller walmart closest to us, that's where the pic was taken. They have 2 super walmarts in Baton Rouge I stop at after work I'll have to see what they carry. The price for the cartridge type is about what a dealer charges from what I remember. I use a lot of the SuperTech's on older cars, but go OEM for the Hybrid.
 
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insightbrewery

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Changed oil with Supertech 5W-30 full-synthetic high-mileage and a Ford Vulcan oil filter (Denso 150-2013). Put in 4qt instead of the requisite 3.8 to make up for the larger filter - ended up right at the "full" mark :). Took a sample and will send it out to Blackstone to see what's what; it's been 7700 miles since the initial oil charge at the engine and trans refresh. About 50/50 city/hwy but there's been a lot of idling (I tend to fall asleep in my car with the engine running after leaving the shop). We'll see how bad it was. I do feel that I can hear my camshaft whine a lot more with the Supertech vs the old oil (Valvoline MaxLife 5W-30 FS HM).

Also rotated tires, plugged a puncture from a broken wood screw, set tire pressures to 40 PSI, and replaced one TPMS sensor's battery.
 
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insightbrewery

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Swapped my inherited 3-yo Walmart battery for a new NAPA Legend. It probably would have lasted longer but I ran it low too many times and it wasn't holding much of a charge. Also paid insurance!
 
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71Corolla

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Does heat kill batteries like crazy or something? I easily get 10 years out of a battery the one my wagon is 13 years old still good. I don't let the batteries freeze but otherwise don't do anything special I do check the water level.
 
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insightbrewery

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Not as hot here as you think, this is middle inland Cali. Of course, it was pushing 70 degrees in the middle of February...lol

When I bought donorcam to resurrect beatercam, they had a 2-yo Walmart battery in it, along with alloy wheels and new (Chinese) tires. So I swapped all those into beatercam...but I have a bad habit of hanging out and falling asleep in my car when I leave for the day. Ran my battery low like, 50-60 times which is probably what killed it. Not doing that to this nice Deka from NAPA.

The original Panasonic in my parents' '02 Sienna lasted 14 years before it started cranking slowly (would still run fine). The original in my accountant's '00 RAV4 lasted 17 years and 260K (!) before it started screwing with the system voltage and causing false O2 sensor and temp sensor codes...would still crank fine and gave no outward signs except sulfate crust on both terminals from leakage. Not that it takes much to crank a 3S-FE. I think there's something to be said for the original Panasonic batteries these came with...like you once said, what makes these cars so reliable and bulletproof isn't anything but high quality of OE parts.

I hear heat kills batteries faster, but again it's not that bad here. But hey, what do you do to protect your batteries in the dead of winter? My plans before I take the trip through the Yukon to Alaska:

1. At 200K (5K away), do struts (KYB), swaybar endlinks (OE or Proforged), oil pump (got a NOS Aisin), oil pan (stamped layers separated, got aftermarket rando pan), coolant (100K mark, gives me a chance to install the block heater).
2. Renew my passport (not sure if I need it)
3. Plan for trip ("If it's brown, lay down; if it's black, fight back; if it's white, good night" :p)
4. If everything is a go, get winter tires 100 miles away from where the wintry snowy stuff really starts so I can get used to them again (been years since I lived in Boston). Plan is to use them for trip, then maybe trade them for regular tires on the way back into easy climate

Does heat kill batteries like crazy or something? I easily get 10 years out of a battery the one my wagon is 13 years old still good. I don't let the batteries freeze but otherwise don't do anything special I do check the water level.
 
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71Corolla

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But hey, what do you do to protect your batteries in the dead of winter?
I drive only one car in the winter, so nothing except the car gets driven daily. The others I keep indoors and check the charge but they hold a charge for months at room temperature.
My plans before I take the trip through the Yukon to Alaska:
I've taken a ride along from northern B.C. to Alaska incredible drive.
1. At 200K (5K away), do struts (KYB), swaybar endlinks (OE or Proforged), oil pump (got a NOS Aisin), oil pan (stamped layers separated, got aftermarket rando pan), coolant (100K mark, gives me a chance to install the block heater).
2. Renew my passport (not sure if I need it)
Don't have to have a passport but if you do it saves potential hassle I recommend renewing. Canada Customs is generally very nice but not always.
3. Plan for trip ("If it's brown, lay down; if it's black, fight back; if it's white, good night" :p)
4. If everything is a go, get winter tires 100 miles away from where the wintry snowy stuff really starts so I can get used to them again (been years since I lived in Boston). Plan is to use them for trip, then maybe trade them for regular tires on the way back into easy climate
Get snow tires, meaning something with heavy tread that does well in moderate to deep snow.
 
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insightbrewery

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Changed out my tired sunvisors (fabric wrinkling, one mirror cover broken, extensions always popping open) with brand-new ones. Old on left, new on right:




I noticed one of the new ones and this old one had this area open:




The other new one had it crimped/glued:




I decided to lube the sunshade extensions and mirror cover hinges to help them stay tight longer. Probably should have gone with a graphite dry lube, but went with a Teflon dry lube...left some white stains:




...I'll try and clean that up.
 
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