What did you do to your gen3/gen4 Camry today?

What generation of Camry do you own?


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insightbrewery

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Swapped out my tired original struts a few miles early. 198.5K right now, changed out with KYB Strut-Plus. Stiff, handles a lot better (and is a lot bouncier over rough road), and my stuff isn't sliding off the seats when I brake now. I do notice a humming noise being transmitted through them above 30 MPH. Now just planning what to do in 1.5K:

- coolant exchange and block heater
- oil change, but not filter - going to try and go 20K on the Vulcan filter. Since I go 10K per change I'm going to follow up each time with an oil analysis
- tire rotation and swaybar endlinks (noticed they were loosey-goosey when I was installing the struts. Debating between sealed Proforged and greasable Moog
 
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71Corolla

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Swapped out my tired original struts a few miles early. 198.5K right now, changed out with KYB Strut-Plus.
Are these the same as the Excel G struts except a complete assembly? I put the G KYB's on my gen3 10 years ago (can't believe it's been that long) since sold the car but still work on it. The car has about 80,000 miles on the struts they did mellow a bit but still quite stiff. On the plus side they are holding up extremely well.
 
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insightbrewery

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Yup. The insulators are somewhat thinner than OE, and the spring is somewhat thicker. Working good so far, although I'm noticing a slight grinding from the front left at highway speeds. I checked the brake dust shield before buttoning up, so I think this may have pushed my wheel bearing over the edge lol. If so, still got tens of thousands of miles before changing...first I'll be getting an alignment when it's time for new tires.

Are these the same as the Excel G struts except a complete assembly? I put the G KYB's on my gen3 10 years ago (can't believe it's been that long) since sold the car but still work on it. The car has about 80,000 miles on the struts they did mellow a bit but still quite stiff. On the plus side they are holding up extremely well.
 
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CamGuy01

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Hi All, well I did a paint project on my 01 Camry today. When I bought the car the previous owner (I am the 3rd owner) was pretty good about staying up on the maintenance but really bad about taking care of the appearance of the car. I don't think the car had ever been waxed and the carpet has stains that to this day (2 1/2 years after I bought it) I have not been able to get out but I have learned that life is a marathon and not a sprint and I get to things as I can and the paint was a priority. As do many cars of that era my Camry has serious separation issues with the basecoat and clearcoat and I don't have the $3,000 to $3,500 that shops want for a repaint so I have been doing it a bit at a time. Last October I did the hood and it made a huge difference in the way the car looked. Next project is the trunk and rear bumper which I did today and again, a HUGE difference in the way the car looks and I couldn't have picked a better day if I had tried. Temps in the mid 70's, 55% humidity, slight gentle breeze, an amazing day. I generally take my car to a friend's house when I do stuff like this and need to get in out of the weather. He has a large 3 car detached garage at the back of his property that is great for this stuff

I did most of the prep work yesterday including sanding and using spot putty to fill in imperfections so all I had to do today was mask and paint and it took me an hour to do all the masking but it was worth it! I will say that I am not used to the basecoat/clearcoat system having grown up with and used paints like DuPont Centary acrylic enamel and Imron as well as the old reliable laquer and I have to admit I don't know what the big deal is about the 2 part paints. All they seem to do is cause trouble and they are expensive to fix. After I got my car masked and finished prepping the trunk it was smooth sailing from there. One thing I have learned is that the clearcoat has to go on wet to get a good shine. You can (and probably should) put the basecoat on wet but you aren't going to get much shine from it. The shine comes from the clear coat. The trunk turned out very well and I am happy. We are expecting the next 3 days to be sunny and clear with temps in the low 80's so that should be plenty of time for the paint to cure. I am going to wait a month for the paint to fully cure and them lightly compound it to bring out the real shine.

I have one or two other paint projects including the roof, the 2 doors on the passengers side, and the front bumper and then my car will look like it just came off the boat from Japan way back in 2001. Well actually my car will look better because it will have a good paint job on it. Not bad for a day's work and a couple hundred dollars. :)
 
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71Corolla

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insightbrewery

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Welp, the blower motor took a crap last night. 199.8K and 21 years. Swapped in the one from donorcam, back to breezy.
 
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insightbrewery

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Changed oil but not filter; using a Vulcan filter (almost double-size) and want to see if it holds up for 20K. About 8K on the oil I pulled, sending that to Blackstone for analysis. Replaced with the same Supertech 5W-30 full-synthetic high-mileage.

Also changed out my swaybar endlinks and rotated tires; now my steering feels like it has a lot more...feel, and also much more sensitive. But I think I need an alignment because I have the same vibration issue above 45 MPH as before the tire rotation.
 
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71Corolla

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20K, damn don't think I would try that long an OCI.
 
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insightbrewery

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Nah, judging by what the oil looked like when I pulled it (about 8K old) I'm going for 10K OCI. I'm just going to try to run the big filter for two oil changes. Going to back this up with Blackstone analyses each time, keep an eye on particulate matter getting through.

20K, damn don't think I would try that long an OCI.
 
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71Corolla

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Does motor oil really go bad over time? This is something I wonder about since I have so many cars and they tend to sit more than driven.
 
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insightbrewery

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Mm, not entirely sure but I think no if the car is stored properly (in which case, motor oil being stored in your engine or in a jug are effectively the same). But if stored outdoors or some such and condensation gets in, it'll start getting acidic and damage the engine components.
 
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